How to Read the WW2 British Battledress Size Chart
Why the Size Chart Still Matters to Collectors
Even though the war ended over 75 years ago, the demand for original British Battledress remains strong among reenactors, museum curators, and vintage‑clothing enthusiasts. A correctly sized jacket not only looks authentic on the parade ground but also preserves the garment’s structural integrity. That’s why understanding the WW2 British Battledress sizing chart is a practical skill, not just a historical curiosity.
Understanding the Number System
The core of the chart is a simple numeric code that mirrors the wearer’s chest measurement in inches. A size 34, for instance, was intended for a man whose chest measured roughly 34 inches (about 86 cm). The numbers usually stepped by two inches—34, 36, 38, and so on—covering the full range of British male physiques at the time.
Chest measurements as the base
Chest was the primary dimension because the Battledress jacket was cut close to the body, with a slight taper at the waist. Tailors of the era measured the chest at the fullest point, keeping the tape snug but not compressing the ribs. The resulting figure dictated the size number, while other body parts were adjusted proportionally.
Length codes: A, B, C
Beyond the numeric chest size, a letter suffix indicated overall length. “A” denoted the standard (or “short”) cut, suitable for men up to about 5 ft 8 in (173 cm). “B” added roughly two inches to the sleeve and overall jacket length for taller soldiers, and “C” was an extra‑long version used by the very tall or by officers who preferred a more generous drop. Collectors often see markings like “38 B” or “40 C” stamped inside the collar.
Measuring Yourself the Right Way
- Chest: Wrap a flexible measuring tape around the fullest part of your torso, keeping the tape level under the armpits and across the shoulder blades. Breathe normally; a tight measurement will make the jacket feel restrictive.
- Waist: Measure at the natural waistline, typically just above the belly button. Although the jacket’s cut is not waist‑focused, a waist that is too large can cause the jacket to billow.
- Sleeve length: With your arm relaxed at your side, measure from the base of the neck (where the collar meets the shoulder) down to the wrist bone.
- Height: Know your standing height to choose the appropriate length code (A, B, or C). If you’re on the cusp—say, 5 ft 9 in—many collectors recommend the “B” version for a more comfortable fit.
Once you have these numbers, compare them to the chart: the chest measurement determines the numeric size, while your height guides the letter suffix. If you fall between two sizes, err on the side of the larger chest number; the jacket can be taken in at the waist more easily than it can be let out.
Typical Size Ranges for Different Ranks
Rank played a subtle role in sizing. Rank‑and‑file soldiers generally received the standard “A” cut, while officers often wore the “B” or “C” versions for a slightly more distinguished silhouette. Additionally, certain specialist units—such as the Royal Engineers—were known to receive jackets with a slightly longer cut to accommodate additional gear.
In practice, a private with a 38‑inch chest would most likely be issued a 38 A, whereas a lieutenant of the same chest size might receive a 38 B. The distinction was not strictly enforced, but it explains why many vintage pieces display a mixture of length codes across the same numeric size.
Common Fit Issues and How to Adjust
Even with a perfect chart reading, a WWII Battledress jacket can feel odd on a modern body. The garment’s original design assumed a slimmer torso and less muscular build than many wear today. If the shoulders feel narrow, a qualified tailor can add a small gusset or insert a discreet shoulder pad without compromising authenticity.
For a tight chest, consider a “drop‑shoulder” alteration: the seam at the shoulder is shifted slightly outward, creating extra room without altering the jacket’s silhouette. Sleeve length can be let out by a half‑inch if the cuff sits too high, but be mindful of the original button placement to keep the look period‑correct.
Finding Authentic Charts and Resources
Original size charts were printed on army regulation sheets and are now scattered across military archives, collector forums, and specialist books. The most reliable sources include the National Army Museum’s digitized uniform manuals and the “British Army Uniforms of the Second World War” reference by Major J. M. M. Stokes. Online, the “WW2 Uniform Forum” hosts scanned copies of the original charts, often annotated by veteran tailors.
When purchasing a jacket, ask the seller for a photograph of the size label inside the collar. A genuine label will read something like “38 B British Battledress” in the classic block font used by the War Office. Cross‑checking this against the chart you’ve studied helps verify authenticity and ensures you’re not buying a post‑war reproduction that may use different sizing conventions.
FAQ
- What does a “38 B” marking tell me? It indicates a chest measurement of about 38 inches with a “B” length—generally two inches longer in the sleeves and overall jacket length than the standard “A” cut.
- Can I wear a WWII Battledress jacket in cold weather? The original garment was designed as a field uniform, so it’s relatively lightweight. Pair it with a thermal undershirt and a woolen scarf for warmth without obscuring the period look.
- Are women’s sizes available for this jacket? The British Army did not issue separate women’s Battledress during WWII; most surviving examples are men’s sizes that have been tailored for female wearers.
- How do I know if a jacket has been altered? Look for irregular stitching around the seams, mismatched buttonholes, or fabric that appears thinner at the edges. Authentic pieces usually have hand‑stitched seams with a consistent thread color.
